Surfed Victoria Bay at daybreak. A few other guys out. Head-high and not that clean but pretty decent. Got a long barrel on first wave — didn’t come out. Another really pretty spot. Right point with lots of rocks but not that gnarly.
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Outside The Boxx is a place where I can put down some memories, collect my thoughts and opinions, relate my adventures, assemble my beliefs, and narrate my stories through words and photographs.
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