First day at Jbay. Woke up early and was in the carpark at supers before light. there were some good sets coming through, a little bit overhead and clean. I screwed my back up pretty badly the other day and I was in a bad way this morning. I couldn’t even reach my feet to put my wetsuit on so I had to pass on the morning session. After checking on the internet for swell outlook, it looked like there may not be much after today. So I decided I better try to do whatever it took to get out there today. So I took a voltaren (high-powered anti-inflamatory) and an oxycontin (an equally high-powered pain killer) and got myself to a place where I could get into my wetsuit and have a go. I was kinda slow to my feet (not a good thing at Jbay) but once up and going I felt good enough and got some really fun, clean waves. It was only about 3-4 feet and a little too inconsistent, but it reminded me how good this wave feels to ride and made me want to stick around to catch it when it’s really happening. I’m normally not at all into using medications but well, desperate times call for desperate measures.
