Surfed Supers early. Got a lot of waves at first then it got crowded and I left.
Surfed Supers again midday. Swell picking up. Overhead to 2x overhead. Rode my 6’10. Got lots of good waves. More consistent swell so people got spread out and people got tired. Surfed until my legs started giving out on my turns and I couldn’t paddle back out. Dawn took a few photos, a couple are on the surfphoto album with today’s date.
Surfed Supers again for the last hour before dark. Rode my 6’6. Got some really good waves. Not too crowded. Good stuff.
