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Surfed Supers early. Chunky, oregon-style, rainy. Not very good but uncrowded. I got a few fun ones then headed for breakfast to save my energy.
Wind shifted offshore and the waves got much better. Went out for a second session but it was crowded and the waves were kinda mushy so it wasn’t a very good sesh.
Went out again in the evening. The waves were really good. Head-and-a-half, long, hollow, offshore glassy. Got tubed twice on one wave (should have been 3 times but I broke my line after #2 and couldn’t get around the lip to get back in). Best waves since I’ve been here for sure.

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Outside The Boxx is a place where I can put down some memories, collect my thoughts and opinions, relate my adventures, assemble my beliefs, and narrate my stories through words and photographs.

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