Surfed Supers early. Chunky, oregon-style, rainy. Not very good but uncrowded. I got a few fun ones then headed for breakfast to save my energy. Wind …
Surfed, worked, walked, read. Found a fish and chips take-away restaurant near us. One gets a large piece of hake deep fried in an authentic, British …
Surfed Boneyards before breakfast. Pretty good head-high to overhead. I wasn’t too motivated so it was a short sesh. Wind came up perfect offshore midday then …
Outside The Boxx is a place where I can put down some memories, collect my thoughts and opinions, relate my adventures, assemble my beliefs, and narrate my stories through words and photographs.